Water Conservation

Lawn watering

• No watering required.  Traditionally, the North Bay area receives enough rainfall to meet your lawn and garden needs.  Remember, always watch the weather ...  rain is free.

Mow like a pro...

• Mow High.  Raise your lawn mower blades to a height of 7.5 cm (3 inches).  Longer grass has deeper roots, can crowd out weeds and above all, retains the lawn soil's moisture.
• Cut correctly.  Only mow when needed during the Fall and never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade.  Short blades of grass are stressful for your lawn and make it difficult for its soil to retain moisture.  
• Leave the grass clippings.  Stop bagging or racking up your lawn clippings.  Clippings provide valuable nutrients (nitrogen), help retain moisture and make it difficult for weeds to grow.  Clippings break down quickly and disappear within a day or two.
• Keep your blades sharp.  Dull mower blades tear the grass, and this can lead to disease and heat stress.  Sharpen your blades twice a season.  

Fertilize naturally

• Use natural fertilizer.  Natural fertilizers such as grass clippings and triple mix are ideal for healthy lawn care.  Fertilize when the top growth has stopped and the roots are still storing nutrients for next season.  This encourages deep, healthy roots that will resist insect pests and help plants retain moisture during dry periods.  Fall fertilizing also helps your grass and garden grow quickly in early Spring.  It's best to fertilize after aerating your lawn.  Check with your local garden nursery for other natural ways to keep your grass and soil healthy.

Aerate to free the flow

• Use a lawn aerator.  Help your lawn breath ...  use an aerator.  It removes plugs of soil from your lawn, allowing water, oxygen flow and fertilizer to reach your grass' root zone.  Aeration is an excellent way for clay-based and compacted soil to retain nutrients and moisture.  For smaller lawns use a pitchfork, aerator shoes or a foot-press aerator.  If you have a large lawn, you can rent or purchase aerators at most garden centres or equipment rental locations.

Seeding for survival

• Over seed your lawn every Fall.  The month of September is usually the best time of year to over seed.  Apply grass seed to thicken the lawn and crowd out weeds.  Weeds grow and spread quickly in a thin lawn.  Use a blend of grasses, especially perennial ryegrasses and fescues, which need less care and can resist bugs.  Young grass can survive the winter and turn into a thick lawn in the Spring.

Mulch for moisture

• Top up the mulch to your lawn and garden.  Mulching in late Spring is best, while Fall is the time to top up, or add mulch if you didn't do it earlier.  Before topping up, check the depth of the mulch already around trees and bushes.  Remember, you only need a 1" to 2" layer of fine mulch or a 2" to 4" layer if it's coarse mulch.  Apply evenly and never pack it down and give the mulch a good soaking.  Leaves, grass clippings and wood chips are all excellent types of mulch and topping up is a great way to protect your trees and garden from winter damage.

Weed, then seed

• Pull weeds.  Get rid of weeds by pulling or digging them up when the soil is moist.  You're sure to get more of the weed roots and disturb less of the soil.  Drop some grass seed in the hole to discourage the weed from returning.
• Stop using pesticides!It is now banned in Ontario; however you can use certain lower-risk pest control products.  For more information visit our pesticides section.

Read More At organiclawncare101.com

Lawn watering

• No watering required.  During the Spring, watering is on Mother Nature's tab and she usually provides more than enough rainfall to meet your lawn and garden needs.  Best of all ...  rain is free.

Mow like a pro...

• Mow High.  Raise your lawn mower blades to a height of 7.5 cm (3 inches).  Longer grass has deeper roots, can crowd out weeds and most importantly, retains the lawn soil's moisture.
• Cut correctly.  Mowing your lawn every week is a ritual ...  not a mandatory requirement.  Mow your lawn only when needed during the Summer.  Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade.  Short blades of grass are stressful for your lawn and make it difficult for the soil to retain moisture.
• Leave the grass clippings.  Stop bagging or racking up your lawn clippings.  Clippings provide valuable nutrients (nitrogen), help retain moisture and make it difficult for weeds to grow.  Clippings break down quickly and disappear within a day or two.
• Choose the right mower.  A mulching mower is ideal for large lawns because the grass clippings are finely chopped and returned to the soil, which helps retain moisture.  For smaller lawns, think of using a reel (or push) mower ...  it gives a good cut which keeps the soil moist and doesn't contribute to noise and air pollution ...  
• Keep your blades sharp.  Dull mower blades tear the grass, and this can lead to disease and heat stress.  Sharpen your blades twice a season.
• Mow before weeds go to seed.  

Weed & seed

• Drop grass seed to discourage weeds.  Use grass seeds after you get rid of your weeds.  This makes it harder for weeds to grow back and keeps your lawn thick and healthy.  A friendly reminder: Pull or dig your weeds when the soil is moist, making it easier get more of the weed roots and disturb less of the soil.
• Use alternatives to pesticides.  North Bay's Pesticide By-Law restricts the use of pesticides, but you can use certain lower-risk pest control products or use natural methods.  For more information visit our pesticide section.

Fertilize on time

• Fertilize late April, early May.  Fertilize your lawn before the first mowing of the season.  Fertilizing on time keeps your lawn vibrant, your soil healthy, and promotes low maintenance during the months ahead.  It's always best to fertilize after aerating your lawn.  

Aerate to free the flow.

• Use a lawn aerator to help your lawn breath.  Use an aerator to remove plugs of soil from your lawn, allowing water, oxygen flow and fertilizer to reach your grass' root zone.  Aeration is an excellent way for clay-based and compacted soil to retain nutrients and moisture.  For smaller lawns use a pitchfork, aerator shoes or a foot-press aerator.  If you have a large lawn, you can rent or purchase an aerator at most garden centres or equipment rental locations.

Seed to grow

• Repair your lawn by over seeding.  Apply grass seed to areas that need some attention.  The right type of grass seed can help thicken the lawn, make it resilient and crowd out weeds.  Weeds grow and spread quickly in a thin lawn.  Use a blend of grasses, especially perennial ryegrasses and fescues ...  these need less care, less water and can resist bugs.  However ...  always check with a gardening expert about what works best for you.  After all, soil type, the amount of sun, and where you plan to plant seeds, must all be taken into consideration.  Young grass can survive the winter and turn into a thick and healthy lawn in the Spring that will only need 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water a week, including rainfall.  Early Spring is the best time of year to repair your lawn and the Fall is usually best for your lawn.

Mulch for moisture

• Apply mulch to your lawn and garden.  Leaves, grass clippings and wood chips are just some of the mulches available to help your garden and lawn retain moisture, provide valuable nutrients and reduce weeds.  Mulch also reduces water loss.  Another important fact: as mulch decomposes, it adds humus to the soil, helping it hold the moisture even more.  Talk to your local garden centre about what type of mulch works best for your plants.  Rule of thumb: mulching is best done in the late Spring - before hot weather arrives and your perennials and annuals are small enough to work around.  Topping off your mulch is best done in the Fall.  Always check the depth of your mulch.  Place 1" to 2" layer of fine mulch or 2" to 4" layer if it's a coarse mulch ...  and spread it evenly.  Don't pack it down and give it a good soak by using a watering can or soaker hose.

Read More at organiclawncare101.com

Water wisely...

• Water early! Watering in the morning means less water is lost to evaporation.
• Water 2.5 cm a week, including rainfall.  Most people overwater, yet experts say you only need 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water, a week, including rainfall, to maintain a vibrant healthy lawn.
• Water less frequently! Water less frequently and you'll reduce the risk of lawn disease.  It's true ...  over watering is over-rated because it can lead to shallow roots, ideal growing conditions for more weeds and lawn disease.  After all, most healthy lawns need only 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water, per week ...  and this includes rainfall.  Also remember to water slowly and deeply.  Frequent light sprinkling leads to shallow roots.
• Use a rain gauge.  A rain gauge is the perfect tool to help measure lawn watering.
• Water according to soil type and weather
• Choose the right sprinkler for your lawn.  When choosing a sprinkler, focus on two things: the flow rate and the size of your lawn.  Some sprinklers may take 15 minutes, or up to two hours to provide the maximum 1" or 2.5 cm, of required watering.  Use the rain gauge to measure your sprinkler's flow rate.  If you have a small lawn use a stationary sprinkler ...  it penetrates deep into the soil.  For large lawns impulse sprinklers provide the best coverage while oscillating (fan) sprinklers tend to shoot water, often missing patches of grass and losing water to wind.  
  If you have an in ground sprinkler system, program it to water just before dawn, make sure the spray isn't hitting the driveway or sidewalk and install a rain sensor.
• Let your grass "sleep it off".   Is your lawn a little yellowish or brown during the Summer?  Don't worry ...  this is called 'dormancy' and it's how your lawn protects itself against the heat.  It's true ...  so, when the weather turns hot and dry, let your lawn sleep.  This means no watering, no mowing and no foot traffic.  And don't worry ...  your lawn will awaken soon enough.
• Stop paying for water your lawn never receives - When you water your lawn in the evening, grass blades - not the soil - get most of the water.  At the same time, the grass remains wet overnight, which can lead to lawn disease.  It's just as costly to water on hot, sunny or windy days and lose the water to evaporation.  That's why it's best to water early in the day.
• Watch the weather!  Rain is free.  Most weeks your lawn receives all the rain it needs.  Healthy lawns only need 2.5 cm (1" inch a week), including rainfall.
• Hand water your garden plants.  Apply water directly to the plant root zone by hand watering or using a soaker hose.  These inexpensive ways minimize water loss and reduce maintenance while increasing your free time.
• Use a rain barrel ...  Don't let storm water go to waste.  Make sure the downspouts from your home's eaves troughs are disconnected from the sewer system and instead drain into a rain barrel, where you can use the water when needed.  At the same time, you're helping reduce combined sewer overflows and protecting our watercourses.
• Water new trees.  Care for your new tree ...  it benefits us all.  

Mow like a pro...

• Mow High.  Raise your lawn mower blades to a height of 7.5 cm (3 inches).  Longer grass has deeper roots, can crowd out weeds and above all, retains the lawn soil's moisture.
• Cut correctly.  Mowing your lawn every week is a ritual ...  not a mandatory requirement.  Mow your lawn only when needed during the Summer.  Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade.  Short blades of grass are stressful for your lawn and make it difficult for its soil to retain moisture.
• Leave the grass clippings.  Stop bagging or racking up your lawn clippings.  Clippings provide valuable nutrients (nitrogen), help retain moisture and make it difficult for weeds to grow.  Clippings break down quickly and disappear within a day or two.
• Mow when grass is dry.  For an even 3" inch lawn, cut your grass when it's dry.  This also helps prevent clippings from clogging your mower.  Mow late in the day to avoid morning dew.
• Choose the right mower.  A mulching mower is ideal for large lawns because the grass clippings are finely chopped and returned to the soil, which helps retain moisture.  For smaller lawns, think of using a reel (or push) mower ...  it gives a good cut which keeps the soil moist and doesn't contribute to noise and air pollution ...  
• Keep your blades sharp.  Dull mower blades tear the grass, and this can lead to disease and heat stress, not to mention burned grass.  Sharpen your blades twice a season.

Seed & weed

• Drop grass seed to discourage weeds.  Use grass seeds after you get rid of your weeds.  This makes it harder for weeds to grow back and keeps your lawn thick and soil healthy.  A friendly reminder: pull or dig your weeds when the soil is moist, making it easier to get more of the weed roots while disturbing less of the soil.  And always check with your local garden centre to make sure you've got the right type of grass seeds to match your lawn's needs.
• Use alternatives to pesticides.  North Bay's Pesticide By-Law restricts the use of pesticides, but you can use certain lower-risk pest control products or use natural methods.  For more information visit our pesticide section.

Mulch maintenance retains moisture

• Watch your mulch levels.  Too much mulch can prevent moisture from entering and not enough mulch can expose your garden to heat stress.  Check mulch levels two to three times a Summer ...  and give it a good soak on occasion, using a watering can or soaker hose.  

Stop Summer fertilizing

• Fertilize only in Spring and Fall.  Avoid fertilizing your lawn during the Summer months or you'll get burned in more ways than one.  Fertilizing during hot and humid days will burn your grass, stress your lawn's soil and hike up your water bill as you try to revive your lawn.  All a healthy lawn needs during the Summer is the use of proper mowing techniques and 2.5 cm (1 "inch) a week of water ...  including rainfall.  

Read More at organiclawncare101.com

Xeriscaping refers to the conservation of water through creative landscaping.

Benefits

• Saves Water
  For most of North America, over 60% of residential water is used is applied to landscape and lawns.   Xeriscape can reduce landscape water use by 50 - 75%. 
  
  
• Less Maintenance
  Aside from occasional pruning and weeding, maintenance is minimal.   Watering requirements are low, and can be met with simple irrigation systems. 
  
  
• No Fertilizers or Pesticides
  Using plants native to our area will eliminate the need for chemical supplements.   Sufficient nutrients are provided by healthy organic soil. 
  
  
• Improves Property Value
  A good xeriscaped site can raise property values, which is more than offset the cost of installation.   Protect your landscaping investment by drought-proof it. 
  
  
• Pollution Free
  Fossil fuel consumption from gas mowers is minimized or eliminated with minimal turf areas.   Small turf areas can be maintained with a reel mower. 
  
  
• Provides Wildlife Habitat
  Use of native plants, shrubs and trees offer a familiar and varied habitat for local wildlife. 
  
  

The Seven Principles of Xeriscaping

Planning for Water Conservation

Evaluate your property and design a plan incorporating your particular characteristics.  Think long term (2 - 3 years) in planning.  Answer these questions:

• How will you use your site?
• What amount of sun and shade does it receive?
• What type of soil do you have and how does it drain?
• Are there any slopes or puddle-collecting depressions?
• What competition do other landscape elements present?

Improving the soil and Using Mulches

Examine your soil type for proper water holding capacity and drainage.   Try adding organic matter, such as compost or mulch to help retain moisture in the soil and decrease soil compaction.   Mulch is used on top of planting beds while compost is usually dug into the soil.

Mulches can be Organic:

• Wood chips
• Shredded wood
• Pine needles
• Grass clippings
• Coarse peat

Mulches can be Inorganic:

• Crushed stone

• Gravel

Using Alternative Ground Cover Rather than Grass

One option is to reduce the amount of lawn you have by selecting other types of groundcovers.

Groundcovers can be Organic:

• Choose cool-season grass type with lower fertilizer requirements, such as a mixture of one the fescue grasses (creeping red, chewing's, sheep, tall and hard fescue) with a finely textured "turf type" perennial ryegrass.

Groundcovers can be Inorganic:

• Interlocking paving stones
• Cement patio
• Crushed stone walkways

Collecting Rainwater

Plants and trees love rainwater, so why not give them all you can?

Try some of these techniques:

• Raise the soil around each shrub and tree to form a mini basin.

Use gutters and downspouts, you can catch rainwater and channel it to your landscape or catch it in rain barrel and use it during dry periods 

Using Highly Effective Watering Methods

Water your Xeriscape garden early in the morning to avoid excessive evaporation and burning of plants.   Make sure you only water the lawn and planted areas and not the pavement.   Water heavily (one inch) once a week. 

Pruning and Maintenance Practices

If you've used fertilizer on any of your plantings, they will need a lot of water to grow (a slow release fertilizer and compost is best).   Pruning and thinning out of trees and shrubs not only shows them off more, it also saves water.   Make sure you don't overdo it or tree bark will get sunburned and soil will dry out.   

Selecting Low Water Use Plants

• Check out the variety ofdrought-tolerant plants available at your local garden center.
• Try experimenting with a small area first.
• Native plants are ideal for water wise gardens because they are generally more resistant to disease and pests.
• Walk around uncultivated areasaround your neighborhood to get an idea which native plants do well in your locale.
• Almost all bulbs are drought-tolerant, making them ideal choices for water wise gardens.